Pink Triangle Anniversary Turntable motor and Power Supply upgrade
With The Origin Live DC Drive Upgrade
VERSION 1 OF THE PINK TRIANGLE ANNIVERSARY TURNTABLE with original motor and power supply
Instructions by kind courtesy of Robin Aitken
These notes are a result of my slightly difficult journey in installing my DC200 motor into my PT Anniversary turntable was purchased new in 1993 and has run like a dream until 2 weeks ago when the power supply died. The replacement was the Ultra upgrade with the DC200 motor.
IMPORTANT:- Existing PT drive belts are too long. Because the OL pulley is smaller than the PT one you need to purchase from OL a 424mm belt.
Make sure you fix the transit screws and the wooden transit board supplied with the Anniversary before starting work.
You must use the original sub-chassis PT motor housing which seems to be made of a type of wood-composite. This is mounted on the sub-chassis and is fixed to it with four screws. It has been damped to reduce motor vibration. The original pulley which is larger than the OL one needs to be removed to allow you to access the three screws which hold the existing motor in place.
One recommendation suggests the use of heat to remove the pulley. This did not work for me despite many attempts. I had to resort to removing the pulley by cutting through the motor spindle with a hacksaw. A suitable small disc cutter would be ideal.
With the pulley removed, unscrew the three small screws which hold the motor in place. It will drop down inside the housing allowing easy removal. Cut and remove the existing cable and the DIN socket from the rear of the turntable. Keep the metal DIN housing.
At this stage, unscrew the two screws on the top of the OL mounting plate and remove the plate and from the top of the motor leaving the cork washers in place. Keep the screws!
The existing screw positions on top of the housing are smaller than the OL motor housing screws and are not in the same position. As the spindle for the PT motor is longer than that on the OL motor, it is necessary to widen the existing hole in the top the housing to accommodate the whole of the OL motor so you can move it within the housing to get the correct height. You can do this by using the top of the OL motor as a template and drilling through the existing hole in the housing to widen it. Finishing is done with a fine round file. The fit for the OL motor can be quite snug as the housing is already damped.
The OL motor is inserted from the underside of the turntable and the motor cable is fed through the gap between the underside of the motor housing and sub-chassis across to the existing channel which leads to the rear of the turntable.
Push the OL motor up through the housing and fit the mounting plate to the top using the two supplied screws.
With the DC kit you will find a small bag with four brass spacers, two screws, a cable clamp and an Allen key. Use the cable camp to fix the OL cable to the channel. Unless you need it for something else throw away the Allen key.
Rotate the mounting plate and motor until so that you can drill starter holes through two of the holes on the plate into the top of the motor housing. One will be the slot hole plus another.
Place two spacers under each of the two holes and secure with the screws from the plastic bag. The new OL motor is now fitted.
You will need to drill out the existing channel near the rear of the turntable so you can push the OL plug through the vacant hole. I found a suitable diameter plastic plug and cut a slot in it to accommodate the cable and inserted this in the DIN plug housing which was then screwed back into position, however, this is a matter of choice as long as the cable is clamped here.
You will now need to move the OL pulley up the spindle slightly so that the drive belt runs centrally on the pulley.
All you need to do now is to run the motor in. I found it extremely quiet from the start with no audible motor noise.
Notes kindly provided for upgrading the pink triangle anniversary turntable by Ian Ward of Vickers Hi Fi in York
- The original sub-chassis mounted PT motor housing must be used. The original pulley must be removed to enable removal of the old motor (usually by heat - hairdryer or soldering iron on pulley - pliers).
- Remove the origin Live mounting plate and cork washer from the top of the motor. The motor fits snugly and the motor screw holes lines up conveniently as well. The original fixing screws can be used.
- The motor cable is routed across the top of the sub-chassis and into a convenient channel used with the previous motor towards the exit hole on the rear of the deck. Some method of clamping the cable is required here.
- The exit hole was formerly occupied by a DIN socket attached to the old motor. There is not enough angle to push the OL plug through the vacant hole. A few mm have to be drilled away inside the plinth to obtain the necessary angle.
- Again a clamp of some type is preferable as the motor cable exits the deck.
- Once the TT suspension is re-set, it may be necessary to level the motor mounting so it is parallel with the top plate. This is done with the aid of the existing washers beneath the mounting, and tightness of the fixing nuts on top.
- The OL pulley is significantly smaller in circumference than that on the original Pink Triangle PT anniversary. Therefore a smaller drive belt (OL supplied 424mm diameter belt) is the answer.