If there is significant speed variation then possible causes are as follows.
Significant changes in room temperature – this affects the viscosity of the oil in the bearing.
Lack of oil in the bearing, check and add if required.
Changed belt tension or a contaminated belt or platter – clean running surfaces.
Turntable out of level – this affects main bearing friction.
Check platter is not fouling on anything.
A dirty bearing can exhibit too much friction – the platter should drift round effortlessly with the slightest of nudges (the lighter the touch the better) and go on spinning very slowly before gradually coming to a stop. If you suspect the bearing friction to be a little high, return the bearing to us for checking.
A worn thrust bearing – this may occur after many years of continuous use in common with all turntables.
Transistors that have developed temperature instability.
Note: For Origin Live decks pre-2008 it is worthwhile changing the oil to our new type – the older oil could dry out or deteriorate if not used regularly which has been known to cause speed problems.
See Tonearm Troubleshooting
For Setting Up Linn LP12’s
Foot Fall Problems Causing Stylus To Skip
If your turntable is sited on a wooden floor there are sometimes problems with a heavy footfall causing the stylus to skip in the groove. Sometimes at higher volumes there are also problems of low frequency feedback through the floor causing the headshell end of the arm to oscillate visibly in the groove.
Solution: The most obvious cure all is to place the turntable on a wall shelf (preferably on a solid wall rather than stud partition. However before adopting this course of action there are a couple of other possible solutions.
a. Try moving the table to a different location – even a few inches can make a difference.
b. Try weighting the table down with a heavy object – slab of marble, etc.
c. Try using something like the Seismic sink which is essentially a rubber tyre inflated inside a platform.
Sometimes at higher volumes there are problems of low frequency feedback through the floor causing the headshell end of the arm to oscillate visibly in the groove. Look to above section for solutions to this problem.
An alternative explanation that has been known to cause this problem is motor vibration caused by a pulley foul or similar problem causing excessive sub-chassis vibration.
For “Popping” Noise Through The Speakers
Static, causing your turntable mat to lift off with records or give you a shock when touching the headshell
Static problems are aggravated in particular environments. The cause of static can be due to a number of factors and solving any problems, demands tracking down the source(s) in a multi-faceted approach.
Air conditioning often causes problems so a humidifier can help or introduce pot plants with plenty of water.
Synthetic carpets or clothing
Try wearing different footwear. Rubber soled shoes allow you to build up thousands of volts of static. Also check out different clothing. Maybe put a non-synthetic mat where you stand to change your records.
Record sleeves that put static on the record when they are removed
Use genuinely anti-static sleeves. Try anti-static guns that remove static charge from records. Zap guns are available on our website.
Records that have not been cleaned to remove mould release agent
All records are covered with a microscopic layer of a waxy substance called mould release agent that’s needed when manufacturing the record. This layer can produce high levels of static that affect performance and should be removed by cleaning with the correct method. We strongly recommend clean your records with L’Art du Son cleaning fluid. This does the job without damaging your records.
Equipment placed on surfaces that have exceptionally high insulation and capacitive characteristics
There may not be much you can do to solve this problem but if experimentation is possible then try a few things.
Earths that are not connected or not functioning
If you have a continuity tester then check that earth leads are working. For example you should get conduction between an exposed metal part on the tonearm and the earth lead on the end. Don’t make the mistake of thinking an anodised part should conduct because it won’t (anodised surfaces are non-conductive).
Very slight bearing noise can sometimes occur – the oil must overflow to eliminate noise. If this does not do the trick then there may be a nick on the shaft perhaps caused by poor handling. Feel the spindle carefully for a rough patch. This can be rectified by lightly using 800 grit wet and dry paper on the defective area only of the shaft. If the defect is a small dent you need not get rid of the whole dent – just abrade the edges to get rid of the raised points.
Marks inside the bearing house can be caused by inserting a spindle at a slight angle but they are very slight and usually bed in with the bearing.
People invariably get focussed on audible noise and producing a silent bearing or motor is EASY. However silent bearings can sound dreadful on audition in comparison to a high rigidity “noisy” design.
Never tamper with the bolt in the bottom of the bearing or oil leaks will occur and you will probably not succeed in re-tightening it.
The “whirring” noise of the motors we use is the noise of brushes contacting the motor rotor and cannot be helped. It’s better to have great electrical contact which improves your motor’s smooth operation even if it results in a slight audible noise. Brushless motors may seem an ideal answer but they are in fact much worse in terms of performance as we’ve tried them. Your cartridge picks up vibration not audible noise and silent motors can have terrible vibration.
Having said this there are sometimes intances where motor develop a kind of “rumbling or grumbling or even knocking noise” This is discussed and a solution put forward in the Youtube video at the bottom of the following link Motor rumble